かぐれのワードローブ #02-2 REPORT 〜製作アイテム検討〜

Kagure's wardrobe #02-2 REPORT ~Production item review~

Kagure no Wardrobe #02, Part 2 has finished.

last report

The item to be produced was decided to be a shirt. During the past month, each member has been working on this homework.


・Mr. enrica Machida is searching for fabric candidates. Focusing on linen, cotton, silk, linen cotton, silk cotton, and natural materials. Organic ingredients if possible. The texture of the fabric is "less (less) transparent", "soft" and "matte".
・The Kagure members are preparing a proposal for a shirt. Words, illustrations, favorite shirts and clothes are OK, so please come prepared.

The goal this time is to collect everyone's shirt images and set points. Then, while Mr. Machida gave us a lecture on shirts and taught us the points of pattern design, we created the outline of the specifications until we started working on the 1st sample.

Today is the climax of the first half to complete the base of the shape. So what kind of shirt will it be?



Kagure members, this past month, you've been thinking about the shirt in the corner of your head and creating a concrete image. There are various presentation methods such as photographs, illustrations, and personal shirts. I can't introduce all of them, but I wonder if a lot of ideas and passion will be transmitted.



Take turns trying on your own shirts and touching the texture of the fabric. Depending on how the fabric and shape match, the length and silhouette will change. This time, we gathered a lot more than the previous One Piece. Among the personal shirts, the one that got the most excitement was the buyer Miyazaki's used shirt (the khaki shirt in the photo). It was the first time that second-hand items appeared.
I exchanged ideas, and the image of the shirt expanded, but I also felt the difficulty of the shirt as there are so many different ways to wear it and the types.

What do you wear it with? Do you wear it as a main? Are you going to put something on top of it? Do you wear the hem tucked in?

In addition to the silhouette of the body, the shape of the collar, sleeves, placket, cuffs, and hem are infinitely wider than the previous dress.

Here, we received a lecture on shirts by Ms. enrica Machida, picking up the key points of everyone's ideas.

In the first place, from the story that strictly speaking, "shirt" and "blouse" are different. Many people know that they are categorized, but do not know the specific differences. Roughly speaking, it can be classified as “Y-shirt – casual shirt – blouse” in the order of formal → casual. However, it seems that blouses are sometimes considered a type of shirt in a broad sense, so please try to imagine it as a classification within a shirt.

Below is a brief explanation.
・Y-shirt A shirt that goes well with suits and formal jacket styles. The sleeves are pulled out from the sleeves of the jacket and the hem is tucked into the bottoms, so the sleeves are long.
・Casual shirt A style shirt that goes well with denim or chino. Work shirts, for example, are more casual.
・Blouse Mainly for women, soft fabrics are often used. The etymology also has the meaning of 'relaxed', and includes those with a shape that can be worn comfortably.

Originally, it was imported from overseas languages ​​and cultures, so I don't think there is a correct answer for the strict division, but first we need to clarify this point. Considering this classification, it was confirmed that what everyone was thinking was "blouse".

The point I would like to make is
・Soft fabric
・Back placket
Slightly lowered shoulders and a relaxed feeling
・There is a breast pocket (one side)
・Small collar
・There should be one point that seems to be original

I decided on the length of the hem and length based on the image of the old shirt I introduced earlier. Because it is the second-hand clothes, the composition and brand are unknown. The times, the fabrics, and the details don't exist today, and changing the fabric just as it is won't work. I considered the type of fabric, the shape of the collar, the position of the buttons, and the length of the sleeves and hem, just to get some inspiration.

The fabrics are mainly cotton, linen, and silk mixed fabrics selected by Mr. Machida. The collection is limited to those with a texture that is “less (less) transparent,” “soft,” and “matte,” but there are various types depending on the weaving method and processing. We will proceed with the examination while touching and testing the transparency.

Enrica-like, soft and comfortable fabrics are lined up, and I spent a lot of time thinking about it. I narrowed down the candidates to a few types, including the possibility of color development.
It was exciting, and the time was extended, but I achieved this goal safely.

Based on the contents of this time, Mr. Machida will proceed from confirmation of candidate fabrics, design patterns to production of the 1st sample.

Click here for Kagure's report. (link to Kagure blog)
It is written from the point of view of participating member Kagure staff Shimada-san, and it is interesting from a different angle than the PINT report.


Next time, in mid-September, we will arrange the 1st sample and potential fabrics that can be progressed, and consider more specific shapes and specifications and explore points for correction.
Since there may be many points to consider for revision, the subsequent schedule has been brought forward and slightly changed.


●Future schedule
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[Kagure no Wardrobe #02 Schedule]
2017/7 #02-1 REPORT ~Consideration of production items~ <End → Report >
2017/8 #02-2 ~Consideration of fabric and design~ <This time>
2017/9 #02-3 ~ 1st sample check ~ <next time>
2017/10 #02-4 ~ 2nd sample check ~
2017/11 #02-5 ~3rd sample check~
2017/12 final decision
2018/1~2 Production
Released March 2018
*Next time onwards is planned. Subject to change.
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After this meeting, Mr. Machida has been steadily progressing.
If I were a woman, I'd already want it at the time of Toile.

We are planning to upload the next report in September.
You can see the 1st sample with photos, so please look forward to the next report.


Middle ground