The temperature has dropped and it's finally starting to feel like autumn. This project is progressing steadily as the seasons change. Kagure's wardrobe #02, the 3rd original shirt making has been completed.
Previous reports 1st time > 2nd time >
In the second round of the previous event, the rough specifications of the shirt were decided, and we narrowed down the candidate fabrics to a few. Between the last time and this time, Mr. enrica Machida completed the production of the toile and the first sample. Based on this 1st sample, today is the time to wear it, look at it, touch it, think about it, and explore the correction points and the next step.
First of all, look back at the last time and share a report on the procurement and selection of fabric candidates. Now let's take a look at the 1st sample!
Previous reports 1st time > 2nd time >
In the second round of the previous event, the rough specifications of the shirt were decided, and we narrowed down the candidate fabrics to a few. Between the last time and this time, Mr. enrica Machida completed the production of the toile and the first sample. Based on this 1st sample, today is the time to wear it, look at it, touch it, think about it, and explore the correction points and the next step.
First of all, look back at the last time and share a report on the procurement and selection of fabric candidates. Now let's take a look at the 1st sample!
Fabric material is cotton. It is a smooth satin cotton that feels like silk, completely different from the so-called image of cotton. It seems that it is a special fabric that has not been released yet that the fabric maker is planning and developing the original. There is a sense of luxury, an elegant atmosphere. You can feel the goodness just by touching the fabric, but as soon as you put the sleeves through, you will react to the good texture and comfort.
The patterns and silhouettes are also completely different, in a good way, by reflecting the difference in fabrics and replacing them with the current era, while starting from the previous second-hand clothing sample. In the past series, we proceeded with sample production based on the concept, image, and rough specification requests, and were amazed at the quality of the finished product. 1st sample, the main point is
・Plenty of width
・Shoulders should not be dropped like the current trend
・Wide sleeves
・Large armhole
It is Kagure-like and has an image that can be worn elegantly as everyday wear. A loose silhouette with a relaxed feel, rather than a shape that follows the body. One of the reasons is that it is made in one size. It's made loosely, but the shoulders aren't too loose, and the fabric is fine, so I think it's well-balanced. The second-hand shirt used as a base has a faint overall atmosphere (silhouette), but it seems that the details have been carefully selected.
The patterns and silhouettes are also completely different, in a good way, by reflecting the difference in fabrics and replacing them with the current era, while starting from the previous second-hand clothing sample. In the past series, we proceeded with sample production based on the concept, image, and rough specification requests, and were amazed at the quality of the finished product. 1st sample, the main point is
・Plenty of width
・Shoulders should not be dropped like the current trend
・Wide sleeves
・Large armhole
It is Kagure-like and has an image that can be worn elegantly as everyday wear. A loose silhouette with a relaxed feel, rather than a shape that follows the body. One of the reasons is that it is made in one size. It's made loosely, but the shoulders aren't too loose, and the fabric is fine, so I think it's well-balanced. The second-hand shirt used as a base has a faint overall atmosphere (silhouette), but it seems that the details have been carefully selected.
From the point of view of the staff while thinking of the customer and the point of view of an individual who likes clothes, everyone gives their opinions and tries on in order. While thinking about how to wear it, we will continue to accumulate opinions and ideas to improve the perfection of the sample, which is still in the process of production planning. Of course, as a planning meeting, it's very serious, but there's an atmosphere of people who like clothes gathering, coordinating, and talking happily, and I have a feeling that something good will come out this time as well. Rather than holding a planning meeting in a conference room, I believe that good things will come out of a fun place where serious adults gather.
At this point, I came up with an interesting idea from the wearer's point of view.
This shirt will be available in several colors, including plain white. If you wear a plain white shirt for a long time, even if you take care of it carefully, the collar and cuffs will become dull, and stains from food and oil will stand out. It's white and plain, so unless it's a natural material and heavily processed, this can't be helped. Even with your favorite white shirt, it would be a shame to say goodbye for that reason. So, even if that happens, I want to keep wearing it! For that case, I came up with the idea of preparing the option of re-dyeing and continuing to wear it.
From time to time, Kagure also holds regular indigo dyeing events where you can bring your own products, and there are many so-called post-dyeing services. There are many cases of indigo dyeing and vegetable dyeing. At this time, if you dye a so-called general white cotton shirt, the threads will not be dyed enough and will look shiny. Dyeing with natural dyes can only add color to natural materials, but the sewing thread for ordinary shirts is made of chemical fiber (polyester). Therefore, we decided to consider using cotton thread for sewing the white shirt so that the thread would also be dyed beautifully. However, the sewing machine needs to be adjusted during production, and there are cases where the thread breaks during sewing, which reduces production efficiency. For this reason, most sewing threads are polyester. It was decided to consult with the factory to confirm whether production support is possible.
At this point, I came up with an interesting idea from the wearer's point of view.
This shirt will be available in several colors, including plain white. If you wear a plain white shirt for a long time, even if you take care of it carefully, the collar and cuffs will become dull, and stains from food and oil will stand out. It's white and plain, so unless it's a natural material and heavily processed, this can't be helped. Even with your favorite white shirt, it would be a shame to say goodbye for that reason. So, even if that happens, I want to keep wearing it! For that case, I came up with the idea of preparing the option of re-dyeing and continuing to wear it.
From time to time, Kagure also holds regular indigo dyeing events where you can bring your own products, and there are many so-called post-dyeing services. There are many cases of indigo dyeing and vegetable dyeing. At this time, if you dye a so-called general white cotton shirt, the threads will not be dyed enough and will look shiny. Dyeing with natural dyes can only add color to natural materials, but the sewing thread for ordinary shirts is made of chemical fiber (polyester). Therefore, we decided to consider using cotton thread for sewing the white shirt so that the thread would also be dyed beautifully. However, the sewing machine needs to be adjusted during production, and there are cases where the thread breaks during sewing, which reduces production efficiency. For this reason, most sewing threads are polyester. It was decided to consult with the factory to confirm whether production support is possible.
I will try different ways of wearing it.
Is the shirt tucked in or out of the bottoms, feminine or masculine, collar closed or open?
Match it with a coat, or wear pants or skirts as bottoms.
While narrowing down the concept of the shirt and how to wear it, we will search for the best balance and points.
There are many participating members in this project, and the store staff who are usually not involved in planning are the main ones. Right in front of the store staff are the many customers who serve and talk with them directly on a daily basis. When creating original products for a shop called Kagure, it is very important to wear and dress well. It is really reassuring that all the store staff who are talking directly with customers are participating. Combine the goodness here with enrica's professional clothing making.
Is the shirt tucked in or out of the bottoms, feminine or masculine, collar closed or open?
Match it with a coat, or wear pants or skirts as bottoms.
While narrowing down the concept of the shirt and how to wear it, we will search for the best balance and points.
There are many participating members in this project, and the store staff who are usually not involved in planning are the main ones. Right in front of the store staff are the many customers who serve and talk with them directly on a daily basis. When creating original products for a shop called Kagure, it is very important to wear and dress well. It is really reassuring that all the store staff who are talking directly with customers are participating. Combine the goodness here with enrica's professional clothing making.
Mr. Machida listened to everyone's opinions on the spot and gave a lecture on correction points and correction proposals. While sharing Mr. Machida's experience and knowledge, we will think about how to incorporate it into product specifications. It's not a classroom lecture, it's a real sample and an ongoing project, so even someone like me, who isn't an expert in clothes, can easily get into it.
The 1st version has a little gathers on the back, but how does the impression change with gathers and tucks? How does it affect comfort and ease of movement? The shape, size and angle of the collar, the balance between the cuffs and the collar, the position and size of the pockets, the combination of the placket and button size... I can't write it all down, but each part has its own specifications (size, shape, etc.), and even just one of those parts can change the impression of the shirt in an instant. At the same time, it is necessary to adjust the balance to other parts and the whole. I was once again surprised by the skill of designers and pattern makers who create good things.
The 1st version has a little gathers on the back, but how does the impression change with gathers and tucks? How does it affect comfort and ease of movement? The shape, size and angle of the collar, the balance between the cuffs and the collar, the position and size of the pockets, the combination of the placket and button size... I can't write it all down, but each part has its own specifications (size, shape, etc.), and even just one of those parts can change the impression of the shirt in an instant. At the same time, it is necessary to adjust the balance to other parts and the whole. I was once again surprised by the skill of designers and pattern makers who create good things.
Continuing this intense lecture and discussion, the correction points have been decided! I will write it down below. It may be difficult to understand, but in the next report, I will upload many photos of the 2nd sample. If you are interested, please compare the photos.
・Small gathers at the back switching → Put a small tuck in the middle (1.5~2cm)
・The pocket is one size (1.5 cm) smaller. The top position is left as it is, so the impression is that it rises a little.
・Reduce the collar by 0.8cm
・Length remains the same
・The shirt cut is unchanged from the 1st
・The cuffs are 3cm cuffs. Changed so that two buttons can be attached to the side and adjusted. Second button at 1st position + 3 cm between.
・Only the white shirt is sewn with cotton thread.
・The number of buttons is the same. Lower the position of the first button and lower it uniformly with the same interval.
・Button size remains the same
・Including the development of fabric colors, the 2nd sample was made with other candidate fabrics and compared. Swiss cotton fabric.
・Small gathers at the back switching → Put a small tuck in the middle (1.5~2cm)
・The pocket is one size (1.5 cm) smaller. The top position is left as it is, so the impression is that it rises a little.
・Reduce the collar by 0.8cm
・Length remains the same
・The shirt cut is unchanged from the 1st
・The cuffs are 3cm cuffs. Changed so that two buttons can be attached to the side and adjusted. Second button at 1st position + 3 cm between.
・Only the white shirt is sewn with cotton thread.
・The number of buttons is the same. Lower the position of the first button and lower it uniformly with the same interval.
・Button size remains the same
・Including the development of fabric colors, the 2nd sample was made with other candidate fabrics and compared. Swiss cotton fabric.
As Mr. Machida was worried at first, the shirt really had a lot to consider, and it was an experience that made me realize that it is a difficult item. Even though it was the same clothes, it was completely different from the past shop coats and dresses, but thanks to Mr. Machida and all the participating members, we were able to finish this meeting safely.
Based on the contents of this time, Mr. Machida will proceed to the production of the second sample and confirmation of the fabric. Fabric inventory changes every moment, and coordinating and negotiating fabric procurement is also a big job for designers.
During this time, Kagure will come up with ideas for ``one point to include in this original shirt'' and ``development colors''. I am looking forward to the next time because I always have new perspectives and ideas as I work and serve customers while imagining it in the corner of my head.
Next time is October. The goal is to capture the landing point by narrowing down the specifications and fabrics based on the 2nd sample.
●Future schedule
//////////////////////////////////////////////////// //////
[Kagure no Wardrobe #02 Schedule]
2017/7 #02-1 REPORT ~Consideration of production items~ <End → Report >
2017/8 #02-2 ~Consideration of fabric and design~ <End → Report >
2017/9 #02-3 ~1st sample check~ <This time>
2017/10 #02-4 ~ 2nd sample check ~ <next time>
2017/11 #02-5 ~3rd sample check~
2017/12 final decision
2018/1~2 Production
Released March 2018
*Next time onwards is planned. Subject to change.
//////////////////////////////////////////////////// //////
This is a complete digression, but the sweets that Mr. Hakoda brings to Kagure's meetings are wonderful. Last time it was grapes, this time Kobe baked sweets. It is served in a beautiful Kagure vessel and is delicious. Mr. Sakata always prepares delicious treats for every meeting. It's the way to choose it, and the vessel. There may be sense and quality, but more than that, the person himself is expressed as it is. Everything appears in the details, and the source is each individual person. After all, I once again thought that brands and shops are people.
Next time, we plan to hold it in October and upload a report.
You can see the 2nd sample with photos, so please look forward to the next report.
Middle ground
Based on the contents of this time, Mr. Machida will proceed to the production of the second sample and confirmation of the fabric. Fabric inventory changes every moment, and coordinating and negotiating fabric procurement is also a big job for designers.
During this time, Kagure will come up with ideas for ``one point to include in this original shirt'' and ``development colors''. I am looking forward to the next time because I always have new perspectives and ideas as I work and serve customers while imagining it in the corner of my head.
Next time is October. The goal is to capture the landing point by narrowing down the specifications and fabrics based on the 2nd sample.
●Future schedule
//////////////////////////////////////////////////// //////
[Kagure no Wardrobe #02 Schedule]
2017/7 #02-1 REPORT ~Consideration of production items~ <End → Report >
2017/8 #02-2 ~Consideration of fabric and design~ <End → Report >
2017/9 #02-3 ~1st sample check~ <This time>
2017/10 #02-4 ~ 2nd sample check ~ <next time>
2017/11 #02-5 ~3rd sample check~
2017/12 final decision
2018/1~2 Production
Released March 2018
*Next time onwards is planned. Subject to change.
//////////////////////////////////////////////////// //////
This is a complete digression, but the sweets that Mr. Hakoda brings to Kagure's meetings are wonderful. Last time it was grapes, this time Kobe baked sweets. It is served in a beautiful Kagure vessel and is delicious. Mr. Sakata always prepares delicious treats for every meeting. It's the way to choose it, and the vessel. There may be sense and quality, but more than that, the person himself is expressed as it is. Everything appears in the details, and the source is each individual person. After all, I once again thought that brands and shops are people.
Next time, we plan to hold it in October and upload a report.
You can see the 2nd sample with photos, so please look forward to the next report.
Middle ground