I'm a little late in posting this report, but Kagure's wardrobe #02, the original shirt making, finished successfully last month for the 4th time.
Previous report 1st > 2nd > 3rd >
In the previous 3rd time, I gave a correction point based on the 1st sample. Until this time, enrica Machida has confirmed the procurement of the fabric and has proceeded with the production of the 3rd sample. Based on the 3rd sample today, I will bring it closer to completion. The good times have finally come.
Previous report 1st > 2nd > 3rd >
In the previous 3rd time, I gave a correction point based on the 1st sample. Until this time, enrica Machida has confirmed the procurement of the fabric and has proceeded with the production of the 3rd sample. Based on the 3rd sample today, I will bring it closer to completion. The good times have finally come.
As I wrote in the previous article, this is a review of the modified contents of the 2nd sample.
・Small gathers at the back switching → Put a small tuck in the middle (1.5~2cm)
・The pocket is one size (1.5 cm) smaller. The top position is left as it is, so the impression is that it rises a little.
・Reduce the collar by 0.8cm
・Length remains the same
・The shirt cut is unchanged from the 1st
・The cuffs are 3cm cuffs. Changed so that two buttons can be attached to the side and adjusted. Second button at 1st position + 3 cm between.
・Only the white shirt is sewn with cotton thread.
・The number of buttons is the same. Lower the position of the first button and lower it uniformly with the same interval.
・Button size remains the same
・Including the development of fabric colors, the 2nd sample was made with other candidate fabrics and compared. Swiss cotton fabric.
From the condition of the fabric and each specification, this time we changed the sewing factory from the 1st and made it. It seems that the 2nd sample was sewn at a factory that handles denim products. Therefore, when you look at the sewing parts such as the chain stitch, it looks a little like work. The fabric is also a little thicker than the 1st, so in contrast to the feminine 1st that can be called a "blouse", it has a masculine impression of a "shirt". While reflecting the detailed specifications and pattern correction points, it was a time to compare two different fabrics and atmospheres.
・Small gathers at the back switching → Put a small tuck in the middle (1.5~2cm)
・The pocket is one size (1.5 cm) smaller. The top position is left as it is, so the impression is that it rises a little.
・Reduce the collar by 0.8cm
・Length remains the same
・The shirt cut is unchanged from the 1st
・The cuffs are 3cm cuffs. Changed so that two buttons can be attached to the side and adjusted. Second button at 1st position + 3 cm between.
・Only the white shirt is sewn with cotton thread.
・The number of buttons is the same. Lower the position of the first button and lower it uniformly with the same interval.
・Button size remains the same
・Including the development of fabric colors, the 2nd sample was made with other candidate fabrics and compared. Swiss cotton fabric.
From the condition of the fabric and each specification, this time we changed the sewing factory from the 1st and made it. It seems that the 2nd sample was sewn at a factory that handles denim products. Therefore, when you look at the sewing parts such as the chain stitch, it looks a little like work. The fabric is also a little thicker than the 1st, so in contrast to the feminine 1st that can be called a "blouse", it has a masculine impression of a "shirt". While reflecting the detailed specifications and pattern correction points, it was a time to compare two different fabrics and atmospheres.
This time as well, everyone took turns trying on the clothes while verifying. Correction points to the 3rd sample along with the verification of the 2nd.
▼ Shapes and patterns
Compared to the 1st, the length, buttons, and pocket correction points have settled down to a perfect balance as I imagined. The balance of the collar allows you to wear it with the buttons open or closed. Even if you wear it open, it does not open the collar, giving it a natural feel with just the right amount of softness.
▼Fabric
Because it is very fine Swiss cotton, it does not have the casualness of a cotton shirt or the stiffness of a shirt, and it feels good on the skin. It is also a high point that the sense of transparency has decreased. Best fabric! I decided to proceed with the next sample with the same fabric. Consider white + dyed color.
▼ Details
The details that were not touched on in the 1st stage were also examined while listening to Mr. Machida's lecture.
● Cufflinks
The empty part should be in the shape of a ring. The details are close to the blouse, and it seems to bring out femininity. In addition, the stitching is the same color as the fabric, making it a discreet design focal point, and the reinforced stitching allows you to wear it for a long time.
Two buttons side by side. It also serves as an adjustment to the cuffs' tightness, but it has a stronger meaning as a design point.
●Pocket part
Add fine stitches in the same color here. It's a women's shirt, but it's a detail that will catch the eye of men.
●Button
In the pattern, only the top button is in a slightly different position, so we changed the button type to make it a focal point. I'm going to add a silk satin covered button. It looks classy and feminine.
So, the pattern is almost OK, the fabric is OK, and the details have been considered.
The point of concern is the overall atmosphere and atmosphere of this shirt. As I wrote earlier, the 2nd was a slightly more masculine finish. As a basic piece that adult women can wear, I want to bring a little more feminine atmosphere. But it doesn't mean simply changing to feminine fabrics or adding designs. Based on the best elements such as fabric and pattern, it is important to decide what other elements and modifications to change the overall atmosphere of the shirt. While Mr. Machida gave us various ideas, we had a long discussion about which approach would be best.
resulting in,
▼ Sewing and washing
The chain stitch and washing process gave it a work-like feel, so I decided to eliminate it and change it to solve the problem.
・Avoid stitching on shoulders, underarms, armholes, and sleeves → Stitches disappear and the feeling of work is lost. Instead, a lock finish makes it thin and light.
・With this, the factory will also return to 1st.
It was decided to produce the 3rd sample in this way.
It was very interesting to see the difference in facial expressions depending on the product that the garment factory specializes in. If you are not involved in production planning, you will not have the opportunity to compare sewing factories and see the finished product, so it was a valuable opportunity for me as well. By the way, the sewing with cotton thread (to be able to re-dye), which was reported in the previous report, remains, and since this is possible at both factories, this specification continues.
▼ Shapes and patterns
Compared to the 1st, the length, buttons, and pocket correction points have settled down to a perfect balance as I imagined. The balance of the collar allows you to wear it with the buttons open or closed. Even if you wear it open, it does not open the collar, giving it a natural feel with just the right amount of softness.
▼Fabric
Because it is very fine Swiss cotton, it does not have the casualness of a cotton shirt or the stiffness of a shirt, and it feels good on the skin. It is also a high point that the sense of transparency has decreased. Best fabric! I decided to proceed with the next sample with the same fabric. Consider white + dyed color.
▼ Details
The details that were not touched on in the 1st stage were also examined while listening to Mr. Machida's lecture.
● Cufflinks
The empty part should be in the shape of a ring. The details are close to the blouse, and it seems to bring out femininity. In addition, the stitching is the same color as the fabric, making it a discreet design focal point, and the reinforced stitching allows you to wear it for a long time.
Two buttons side by side. It also serves as an adjustment to the cuffs' tightness, but it has a stronger meaning as a design point.
●Pocket part
Add fine stitches in the same color here. It's a women's shirt, but it's a detail that will catch the eye of men.
●Button
In the pattern, only the top button is in a slightly different position, so we changed the button type to make it a focal point. I'm going to add a silk satin covered button. It looks classy and feminine.
So, the pattern is almost OK, the fabric is OK, and the details have been considered.
The point of concern is the overall atmosphere and atmosphere of this shirt. As I wrote earlier, the 2nd was a slightly more masculine finish. As a basic piece that adult women can wear, I want to bring a little more feminine atmosphere. But it doesn't mean simply changing to feminine fabrics or adding designs. Based on the best elements such as fabric and pattern, it is important to decide what other elements and modifications to change the overall atmosphere of the shirt. While Mr. Machida gave us various ideas, we had a long discussion about which approach would be best.
resulting in,
▼ Sewing and washing
The chain stitch and washing process gave it a work-like feel, so I decided to eliminate it and change it to solve the problem.
・Avoid stitching on shoulders, underarms, armholes, and sleeves → Stitches disappear and the feeling of work is lost. Instead, a lock finish makes it thin and light.
・With this, the factory will also return to 1st.
It was decided to produce the 3rd sample in this way.
It was very interesting to see the difference in facial expressions depending on the product that the garment factory specializes in. If you are not involved in production planning, you will not have the opportunity to compare sewing factories and see the finished product, so it was a valuable opportunity for me as well. By the way, the sewing with cotton thread (to be able to re-dye), which was reported in the previous report, remains, and since this is possible at both factories, this specification continues.
Next is the 3rd sample. This will be the final sample. We're nearing the end.
At the same time, we will work on production and sales schedules, price considerations, and considerations of tags and tags.
Here, there were many opinions that differed from the so-called product development meeting, so there was an impressive story.
When I talked about the theme of how customers can know and choose this shirt. The topic tends to be sales-promoting "promotion", such as in-store and web announcements, product introduction methods, etc. A lot of ideas came out only from the perspective of "how to meet". I also came up with new ideas that I didn't come up with with past members, so I'd like to introduce them next time we get together.
There is also the idea that the Kagure staff could be involved in part of the clothes making process. This will also be decided after detailed consideration next time based on the 3rd sample.
Finally, I could see the specific shape of the shirt. I feel that the image of the clothes we are aiming for has come together as we openly and frankly share our opinions.
The next time will be in late November. This is a check of the 3rd sample.
●Future schedule
//////////////////////////////////////////////////// //////
[Kagure no Wardrobe #02 Schedule]
2017/7 #02-1 REPORT ~Consideration of production items~ <End → Report >
2017/8 #02-2 ~Consideration of fabric and design~ <End → Report >
2017/9 #02-3 ~ 1st sample check ~ <End → Report >
2017/10 #02-4 ~ 2nd sample check ~ <this time>
2017/11 #02-5 ~ 3rd sample check ~ <next time>
2017/12 final decision
2018/1~2 Production
Released March 2018
*Next time onwards is planned. Subject to change.
//////////////////////////////////////////////////// //////
The next meeting will be held at the end of November and the report will be uploaded.
This is the 3rd sample check, but depending on the content, it may be possible to proceed to the final decision, so please look forward to it.
The next time will be in late November. This is a check of the 3rd sample.
●Future schedule
//////////////////////////////////////////////////// //////
[Kagure no Wardrobe #02 Schedule]
2017/7 #02-1 REPORT ~Consideration of production items~ <End → Report >
2017/8 #02-2 ~Consideration of fabric and design~ <End → Report >
2017/9 #02-3 ~ 1st sample check ~ <End → Report >
2017/10 #02-4 ~ 2nd sample check ~ <this time>
2017/11 #02-5 ~ 3rd sample check ~ <next time>
2017/12 final decision
2018/1~2 Production
Released March 2018
*Next time onwards is planned. Subject to change.
//////////////////////////////////////////////////// //////
The next meeting will be held at the end of November and the report will be uploaded.
This is the 3rd sample check, but depending on the content, it may be possible to proceed to the final decision, so please look forward to it.